Belay Devices & Ascenders

Belay devices allow you to hold your partner if they fall, and lower them safely. Many can also be used to abseil with. Belay devices act as a friction brake on the rope, with your “brake hand” locking off the free end of the rope. With all belay devices, proper technique is crucial. If you’re not sure how to use your belay device properly, see the manufacturer’s instructions or get some advice.

The wide range of devices on offer can confuse even the most experienced of climbers, but basically there are three main types out there:

• Manual tube belay devices
• Tube devices with assisted braking
• ‘Semi-automatic’ belay devices

Which one you choose depends on the kind of climbing you do.

Tube belay devices or ‘tubers’ are by far the most common type used. Manual tube belay devices allow you to belay very dynamically, but the device’s braking force only functions if the dead rope is held down by the belayer, so always keep your brake hand on the rope. Many tubers also have an auto-block or guide mode, where you can attach them to the anchor to bring up one or two following climbers. Belaying in this manner is ideal for multi-pitch routes.

• Dynamic braking and dynamic belaying
• Lightweight and easy to use

These devices work the same as normal tubers, only they are designed to brake the rope by pinching it between the device and a carabiner when a sudden force is applied. This assists the belayer in catching and holding a fall. These devices are generally lighter and less expensive than semi-automatic devices.

• Assisted braking performance = higher safety reserves
• Less hand braking force required

‘Semi-automatic’ belay devices are mostly used for sport climbing, either at the gym or outdoors. They have a mechanism inside the device that locks the rope if a climber falls. They’re classified under the EN 15151-1 standard as “braking devices with manually assisted locking”. These devices tend to be a bit heavier and mainly only function with a single rope. This means you can’t abseil with them on double ropes like you can with a tuber. Because they are not dependent on the brake hand, these devices are very popular for sport climbing and cragging, as they require the least effort to belay with. However, they require very specific belay techniques and it takes time to learn to use them safely.

• Assisted locking function for high safety reserves

Climbing single-pitch routes often means that falls and rests and lowering are more common. A device with increased friction and braking assistance can make for easier belaying. This is what makes semi-automatic belay devices so popular.

You want a device that works with double ropes and that you can abseil with. Tubers with an auto-block mode can make it more comfortable and save effort when bringing up a second.

If you’re climbing with thinner skinny twin or half ropes, make sure your belay device is compatible with your rope diameter. It makes sense to be able to belay your leader with braking assistance and have the option of auto-block mode.

It’s perfectly possible to belay without a belay device using an Italian Hitch, aka Munter Hitch. All you need is a big, locking HMS locking carabiner. This is worth knowing in case you drop your belay device. However, belay devices allow much slicker rope management.